Category Archives: Food Knowledge & History

About the history of food, and knowledge I’ve gained about the foods I use.

Sweet Potato or Yam, which one do you eat?

Oriental YamsThe terms sweet potato and yam seem to be used interchangeably, but are they the same plant? The answer is no. The sweet potato comes from the Americas (Peru and Ecuador), and the yam is indigenous to Africa and Asia.

Yams are such a staple food that they are celebrated in East African culture. Most of the world’s yam crops are grown in Africa. They can get as large as 150 lbs or so, and have a scaly outer skin. They are starchier and drier than the sweet potato. And unless you are shopping in an international market, chances are what are labeled yams here in the U.S. are really sweet potatoes.

The sweet potato is indigenous to the South American continent. And like its distant cousin the potato, originally comes from Peru. Eventually it made its way to North America. When it was introduced in the South, the slaves at the time called it nyami because of it’s similarity to the yam. The name was shortened to yam, and it stuck. So much so that in the U.S.D.A made it mandatory that any product labeled sweet potato must also have the label yam.

Sweet potatoes are sweet, and usually moist. They are best roasted and mashed. Or chopped into cubes, roasted, and made into salads. They can be pureed like a regular potato. Of course, American holiday dinners include Candied Yams, which are mashed sweet potatoes baked with a marshmallow topping.

A sweet potato can also be fried, but whatever way you serve it, they are just darn good for you. They have high vitamin A content, are high in fiber, vitamin B6, and manganese. When eaten with complimentary foods, a complete protein can be achieved, in the same manner as eating rice and beans. Personally, I like to bake them in the oven until they are mushy inside, and just eat them with salt and Earth Balance margarine. Delicious.

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New Year, New Knives

 

As you know, I’ve been cooking for a while, quite a long while. My standard everyday knives have been Forschners (now under Vitorinox).  They are getting up there in age. Since I moved into the land of fine dining, that means fine knife work, and that means new knives. I have secretly coveted Japanese knives, and though not trained in their usage, nor mentored by a chef who gave me permission to purchase them, I stepped out and bought new knives last week.

Japanese.Ohishi Knives with Ceramic steel

Ohishi.

Beautiful.

I bought the knives before researching. There’s a great little shop in town called the Phoenix Knife House, owned and operated by chefs. They carry some extraordinary and beautiful knives. I like to support independently owned and operated businesses. And most of my co-workers have visited them at some point since they opened.

I discussed my budget with the owner, and he proceeded to lay out about five different brands and let me handle and fondle the knives. In the meantime he reconditioned my worn and abused Forschners. I finally chose a brand, and after a telephone call to my budget advisor, purchased two Ohishi Japanese blades, a petty utility knife, and a santuko knife. I also bought a ceramic steel to keep them sharp.

I dropped the cash, and set about the rest of my day. While driving around I realized I was having a paranoid and averse reaction to purchasing these knives. What was it? I felt like I did not deserve them. Really, I’m a fraud, not a real chef. All these thoughts flamed through my brain as I bought rice and drove all the way back home. During my shower the next day, I stumbled upon a core reason: in traditional Japanese chef culture, women are excluded. They cook at home and tend the rice fields, but they do not cook on a larger, grander scale, in restaurants. This information is blazoned some where deep inside me. So not only do I think I don’t deserve the knives, I do not have a right to them, being both female and non-Japanese.

I am a quality chef. I have proven myself, quite a few times over. I’ve earned good knives.  I work in an environment where they are necessary. I have a right to these knives and I do know how to use them.

The blades I chose are made in the village Seki, at the base of Mt. Fuji. They are a 17 fold Damascus steel blade. The pattern design is called suminagashi, and is designed like ink flow on  paper. It actually shows the folds of steel in the blade. The dimples in the knives are called Tsuchime, and are hand-hammered. I chose the knives for both balance and design. Of course, I ran home, used the knives, let them bleed me before taking them to work, then I researched them. The attraction to the pattern makes sense, being a writer, artist, and chef.

New Knife in useAnd now, I am hopelessly hooked on Japanese blades. I’m looking forward to the purchase of the next two knives. I now understand why a chef will drop more money than rent on a set of these high performance blades.

I do not recommend them for the home cook. There are other, less expensive brands that will hold up to that kind of work. As a chef, these are really nice blades to use. They have great balance and weight, and perform under the rigors of fine dining prep work.

I’ve made peace with my initial reaction of being not worthy. My workload has been cut in half, and my hands are much more sure working with these blades. I certainly deserve them, and am a worthy enough chef to use them. Any fear I had has fled and gone. Now, I slice and dice, confidant of the blade in my hand. Plus, they look really cool.

The Santuko knife is also known as an Asian Chef knife, thought to have developed from the Japanese rectangular vegetable knife. The blade is thinner then a chef’s knife, and shorter. The design of the blade helps to keep food from sticking to the blade. It is designed for mincing, chopping, slicing and dicing. I’ve used mine for a variety of tasks, finely chopped shallots, julienned carrots, and slicing bread.

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The Paleo Diet, Why it is a Fad and Why it’s not Healthy

 

I have a friend who came over the other night, and it was dinner time. I asked if she wanted to eat with us. I was cooking Mushroom Veggie burgers with all the fixings. The burgers had rice and other grains in them. She exclaimed that she is on the Paleo Diet and that she was only eating proteins and vegetables, but just this time she could eat with us.

The Paleo Diet confuses me. Why would anyone want eat like a caveman? Or revert to a diet of 30,000 to 40,000 years ago. I’m not even going to stand on defense of veganism here, it is just that basic question, “why go backwards?”

I was perusing Facebook, and came across a link for Colleen Patrick Godreau’s lastest podcast , “The Newest Diet Fad: Paleo.” So I took a listen. It is informative and well-thought out. She discusses the reasons we should not pick up this kind of diet, and why it is even impossible because we don’t know everything the Paleolithic person consumed. And she talks about “Pasturbation” If you want to know what that is, get on over and listen. And you’ll have a bit more information for the next time one of your friends say “Oh, I’ve gone Paleo.”

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Arrowroot and It’s Companions

 

When we think of thickeners, classic French cooking comes to mind with a mixture called roux. Roux involves butter and flour.  The butter is melted and the flour added to the butter and then cooked until the flour loses its pasty taste. This roux is then added to soups and sauces to thicken them. Roux is a large component in Country Gravy, and Alfredo Sauce. And alongside veal stock, it is the backbone of Classic French Cuisine

It’s not so surprising that there is more than one kind of thickener in the world. Arrowroot, cornstarch, tapioca starch, potato starch, kudzo, and others can be used in various ways to thicken sauces, soups, and other mixes. Arrowroot is my favorite. It is flavorless and gives a glossy sheen to a soup or sauce.

Arrow Root

Arrowroot is indigenous to the Tropical Americas, and was a staple food of the Arawak People. It is high in calcium, carbohydrates, and potassium, but not protein, or vitamins. It is not considered a replacement food in the United States, unlike other cultures, where  it has been used for people with sensitive digestive systems, and as baby food.

Transforming the diet from animal to plant base, understanding what ingredients to use is important. Arrowroot can replace that fattening and pesky roux. 1 tsp of arrowroot equals 1 tbsp of flour. It needs to be mixed with cold water into what is called a slurry, before adding it to a hot liquid. I’ve used it in soups and tamari based sauces. It is the base for my White Gravy recipe.

It is possible to explore the other thickeners as well, I just haven’t branched out yet. The only time I used potato starch was when I experimented with making paper (messier than cooking if you can believe that!). As I learn and read more, it will probably show up in some of the Kitchen Shaman Recipes.

So go ahead and try out this great ingredient. Don’t be afraid to try new things, especially in the kitchen!

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Questions and Answers about Vegans and Vegetarians

 1) How do you get nutrients in a vegan/vegetarian diet?

2) Why don’t vegans eat honey?

3) Isn’t being vegan just like being a vegetarian?

These are the tops questions that come up in discussions about vegan cuisine. It is getting almost as old as the top three questions about being a lesbian (people don’t ask me these questions any more, we are a little more educated as a population).

1) How do you get nutrients in a vegan/vegetarian diet?

Nutrients are easy. Eat legumes, lentils, beans, split peas, dahl, fava beans. All these foods have high amounts of protein. Eat vegetables. Vegetables have loads of minerals that your body needs to function. Folic acid, potassium, calcium, manganese, and some I can’t quite pronounce. Eating a solid stream of plant matter keeps the body balanced and healthy. Fruits and nuts also help the body. Nuts have loads of protein and other minerals and vitamins. Fruit is loaded with Vitamin C, sugars, and fiber that the system needs to keep going. Some people say fruit has bad sugars.  Not true. The body can process these sugars easier than the sugar produced by corn.

2) Why don’t vegans eat honey?

Vegans do not eat ANY animal product, including honey. Most vegans do not wear clothing made from animals. That includes leather and silk. (Silk is a product of the silk worm, which are killed in the process of obtaining the fiber.) If you think that is limiting, then think of the animals that are put through brutal practices in order to produce meat and clothing.

3) Isn’t being vegan just like being a vegetarian?

Vegans and vegetarians do NOT have the same diet. Vegetarians consume eggs, cheese, honey, and other foods made from or processed through animal products (like non-vegan sugar). They wear clothing and accessories made from animals, and they do not usually hold the same radical political views that vegans have. So no, vegans are not vegetarians.

I hope this answers some questions about veganism and vegetarianism. I’ve been collecting information for the better part of 25 years. I have crossed paths with many folks who eat both diets. And I’ve learned so much just from reading and having conversations. Information combats ignorance and prejudice. Wouldn’t it be a great thing if we could help remove the stigma surrounding veganism.

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The Golden Spice, Turmeric

Indian TurmericTurmeric is called the Golden Spice. It is a root, a rhizome of a plant in the ginger family. Turmeric is used as a spice, a coloring, and an healing herb. Its uses date back at least 4,000 years.

Turmeric needs rainy, wet places to grow. Once harvested, it is boiled, dried in ovens, and then pounded into a powder. Once in powder form, it is used in the process of dying fabrics, and in the kitchen as a main ingredient in most curries, and subzies (vegetables).

The health benefits of the active ingredient curcumin are numerous. Its main function is an anti-inflammatory. It also aids in digestion, and is used as an anti-oxidant, destroying free radicals in the system. More research is being done on the benefits of turmeric.

Since ancient times, turmeric has been honored and revered. Today is has been pushed aside in favor of modern medicine. I’ve been taking turmeric as an anti-inflammatory for two years now, and have not had any adverse side affects, unlike when I was taking an over-the counter medication to control pain and swelling. It amazes me that we call the Ancients “barbarians” when they seemed to know more about natural medicines than the modern world.

I use turmeric in many dishes. It is one of the main spices in my vegan Potato Salad. It goes well in Curried Rice, and in most of the other Indian dishes I’ve been experimenting with.

If you want to add a bit of zing to your food with the added knowledge that it is good for you, get turmeric into your diet.

Information for this article came from:  http://www.umm.edu/altmed/articles/turmeric-000277.htm

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Next Course: King Quinoa

Save the Date: September 4th, 2011, 5:30 p.m.

I’ll be teaching a class on quinoa — how to make it, how to spice it up, what to serve it with, and I’ll have the nutritional facts and history of quinoa. If you’re in the Phoenix area, and want to check it out, make a reservation at Luci’s Healthy Marketplace for a seat.

The Bonus? Sampling the food we make in class.

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Following the Spice: Cumin

Cumin4th in a series about spices

In ancient times, cumin was as common a spice as black pepper is on our tables today. Used as a condiment, baked in bread, and distributed widely, cumin seed generated several fascinating myths and origin stories as well as a list of incredible health benefits. In the Ancient World, people believed that cumin could cure anything but death.

What is Cumin?

There are two kinds of seed that are called cumin. Nigella Sativa, otherwise known as black cumin, and Cuminum Cyminum, a member of the parsley family. The latter comes in amber, white, and black varieties. The black is more of a dark brown, not the color of the Nigella seed. Today, Cuminum Cyminum is the more popular culinary choice. Black cumin is more rare, but seems to be the seed of the  legends.

black cumin Black cumin, or Nigella Sativa, was found in the tomb of the Pharaoh Tutankhamun. Pharaohs were buried only with items that would help them in the afterlife, so they must have placed a high value on the seed. The Old Testament tells of threshing wheat and cumin at the same time. Many women used cumin to keep their husbands from straying since it was known as the fidelity spice. They would bake and give cumin bread to the men before they went off to war, to keep them faithful.

It is still unclear if these legends are referring to Nigella cumin or Cuminum Cyminum. The research I have delved into remains blurry. It is safe to assume that most of the legends are about the more popular cumin seed, but when discussing health benefits they are referring to the Black Cumin, or Nigella.

Health Benefits of Cumin

The health benefits of cumin are extensive. Mostly I’ve found reference to Black Cumin and health benefits. But I’m sure that there are incredible health benefits to the more every day kind of cumin.

As mentioned in recent posts, when ginger, coriander and cumin come together they create the trifecta of health benefits in the culinary world. Add turmeric, and your cooking will do wonders for the diner.  Just don’t tell them that what they are eating is healthy for them. Let them enjoy the meal and thank you for great tasting food.

Cooking with Cumin

The culinary uses of cumin seed are many and varied. Cumin seasons soups, stews, breads, and vegetables. Toast the seed, grind it, and use it like pepper at the table. It can also be made into a tea. Cumin can be considered one of the truly global cuisine spices. It is used in Asian, Indian, North African and Mediterranean, as well as Latin American cuisines. It gives a nutty, peppery flavor to food.

I love cumin. I discovered it when I first learned Sonoran cooking. And as I progress further into South Indian cooking, I find myself buying more of it than I ever did in the past. I get excited about the smell, the feel, the taste of cumin. And when it is on the stove toasting in the pan, the whole house feels a bit more relaxed.

Visit any one of my recipes that includes cumin as a base spice, Smokey Tofu and Magic Sauce, Black Bean and Tempeh Chili, or Tofu Scramble. Or try it in one of your own recipes. The taste will be reward enough.

If you have any experiments or recipes with cumin you would like to share, please feel free to comment below. I’d especially like to see a cumin bread recipe.

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The Spice Road: Coriander

Coriander (seeds)3′d in a series about Spices

Certain foods inspire strong reactions in people.  For example, many people either love or hate cilantro.  Its prevalence in salsas and Mexican sauces make it easily recognizable to most diners. On the other hand, coriander is more of a stealth ingredient, finding its way into many foods without inspiring such a strong reaction.  What many people don’t realize is that those cilantro leaves and stems come from the same plant as the spice known as coriander.

Coriander is the fruit or seed of the cilantro plant (also known as Chinese parsley). The seed is ground up and used as a base in curry pastes or “gravies.” It serves as a base ingredient in Mediterranean, Chinese, and Indonesian cooking. It sports a pungent fragrance and provides a deep, rich flavor to food. Cilantro, on the other hand, lighter but stronger, imparts a “lift” to any food it seasons. Recipes usually add cilantro at the end of a dish while coriander is added at the beginning. Oftentimes coriander is toasted and ground, and then mixed in with ginger and turmeric. Diners can easily see and recognize cilantro in a dish, which can trigger an immediate reaction, either positive or negative. Since coriander is one of the invisible spices, most people don’t even know they are eating it.

cilantroThere are many culinary uses for coriander. I put it into almost any stew or soup I make. I use it in chili and in the Indian dishes I am learning to cook. It was an ingredient in the “magic sauce” that I accidentally created one night. I like the earthiness, the pungency, the deepness coriander gives to dishes.

I started using coriander after reading Michael Symon’s Live to Cook: Recipes and Techniques to Rock Your Kitchen
a book by one of America’s Iron Chef’s. Using coriander made sense to me, since I was already a heavy user of cilantro. From the time I started using it in my food, I have been richly rewarded with compliments.

Like other spices that are used in curries, coriander has many medicinal uses. It is a digestive aid, an anti-inflammatory and helps with nausea. It can help prevent urinary tract infections. It is believed to help prevent heart disease, lower LDL’s (bad cholestorol) and it is known to lower blood sugar. Coriander is also a good source of trace minerals like potassium, calcium, manganese, iron, and magnesium. It has been proven to be an effective and powerful anti-oxidant.

Coriander may be one of the oldest used herbs or spices in our food. It grows wild, and needs hardly any cultivation to thrive. It is easy to start, and doesn’t mind being transplanted. I’ve successfully grown and harvested several plants for seed. Once the desert weather cools down, I’ll have another crop on the way.

If you aren’t a fan of cilantro, try coriander; you might be surprised, and may find yourself starting to like cilantro a little more.

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The Heat of Ginger

Ginger:

2nd in a series about Spices

GingerGinger is a root, the rhizome of Zingiber Officinale, and grows in fertile, moist soil (definitely not where I come from). Unlike most spices when ginger is used fresh, not dried, it is still called a spice. Typically the root is dried, and ground to a powder, or the oils from the ginger are extracted and used medicinally.

Ginger purportedly has many medicinal uses. Most of them are unproven by Western Medical Science, but well known in the Schools of Ayurveda, and in Traditional Chinese Medicine. I am not a trained Nutritionist, or part of the Medical Profession, yet I do believe in the power of herbs and spices to heal. And ginger is one of those spices. It is known as an anti-inflammatory, helping with Arthritis, nausea and vomiting in both pregnancy and chemo therapy patients. It is used to combat ulcerative colitis, heartburn and stomach upset. It is also used to treat Upper Respiratory infections. It may possibly help in heart-related disease, by lowering cholesterol. And there have been studies done to show its usefulness in alleviating motion-sickness. Ginger may possibly have cancer-fighting agents as well, but that remains unproven as of right now.

The culinary uses of ginger are simple. Chop it up fresh and add it to sauteed vegetables. Make a spice mixture, or ginger paste, with turmeric and coriander and a little water, add this to potatoes and cauliflower (Aloo Gobi). Or make a tea, cutting discs and steeping in water. Ginger carries heat, and is spicy, when used with chili powder, it creates a volatile, hot, and terrific compound for soups or stews. I use Ginger in Fava Bean Cassoulet, it creates a complexity in the broth, and the Fava love the ginger. You can pickle ginger, or make ginger beer. Here in the US, ginger has been regulated to Ginger Ale, Gingerbread, Ginger Snaps, and candied ginger. Maybe if we got a bit more fresh ginger in us, we’d be a healthier, happier nation.

Do you have any ginger recipes, or uses of ginger, leave a comment below, let me know. I’d love to post it here on Kitchen Shaman.

 

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